Saturday, June 2, 2007

Au revoir

Today we leave our apartment and tomorrow morning we fly home bringing our Paris adventure to an end.

Shortly Kwan and I will post a list of our favourite things, don't miss bits and tips.

We've had a wonderful time and love Paris even more than when we arrived. Three months has gone very quickly. We've never been short of things to do; in fact we've been very busy the whole time. We head home with a list of things to do next time.

Must go and pack now.

Friday, June 1, 2007

Friday, May 18, 2007

Rear Window



Sometimes our apartment here in Paris reminds me of the Hitchcock film Rear Window.

We have windows on the front side of the apartment, from the lounge salon, main bedroom and bathroom, onto the street, Square de la tour Marbourg, and windows at the rear in the dining room, kitchen, second and third bedrooms looking onto a private park which is created by other apartments, the rear of a church and the access to the AUP (American University of Paris. I've set up my laptop on a small table in the dining room overlooking the private park and other apartments at the rear. Tonight is a warm evening and I have the window open. Not only the sounds of birds in the trees but the sounds of people about their evening’s business drifts in: someone is practising piano very competently; another guitar not so competently. The smell of dinners wafting in is very evocative...something with garlic....irresistible and reminds one in no uncertain way where we are. It arouses similar identification to the smells of roast dinner on a Sunday. Unidentifiable voices...people about their evening. I can see a lady with her windows wide open leaning on the sill watching the evening descend. The rear outlook is much more private now that the winter skeletons have been replaced with the green clothing of spring.

The front of the apartment also provides much entertainment. First thing in the morning we are aware of the joyous sounds of children playing in the yard of the school at the end of the square. Soon after 8 it goes quiet heralded by a long five second bell. Around 10am this same bell reactivates the playful sounds as it does again at lunch time and at the end of school at 3.30pm (sorry 15.30).

By 5pm the local pre teen boys have turned our cul de sac into an exciting velodrome. They tear around on their roll-a-blades winning Olympic medals at one time and practicing for hockey championships at another, and always ready to impress some of the local girls who turn up, but never allowed to participate. Later the soccer ball will provide more entertainment…..occasionally the handheld electronic game intrudes.

Meanwhile on the ground floor of the building opposite the local bridge club is in full swing from mid afternoon until early evening. No noise evidences this activity, but the otherwise shuttered windows are opened to let in the light, and one can see the tables of foursomes with North spelt out on the interior wall.

I am an unafflicted busy body.

Monday, May 14, 2007

Les visiteurs









Annie .... from Atlanta





















Clare ....from Byron Bay














Beeb ....from Sid-en-knee


















Jez & Jeremy ....en route to everywhere














Hans & Wali ....from Vienna








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Monday, May 7, 2007

C'est capitalist

We arrived back in Paris on Sunday after 2 weeks away in Switzerland, Germany and Denmark. All of this is new territory for us both. The places visited included


Switzerland -Lausanne, Geneva,
Germany - Berlin, Hamburg, Lubeck, Bad Schwarthu
Denmark - Skjoltrup on the island of Falster, Copenhagen

We fly back into Charles de Gaul airport arriving at 8.15pm and we are aware that the result of the presidential election will be known by now. We have been warned that there may be strikes regardless of who wins and the streets will most certainly be crowded. There are taxis at the terminal - a good sign. Once we are on our way we enquire of the driver "Qui est le président ? " -
"Sarkozy, pehhhh c'est capitalist " he spits
We then get a lecture from which we get the general drift that he doesn't like Sarkozy. He informs us that the Place de la Concorde is a mess full of people, and I assume that this is his way of explaining in advance for taking a circuitous route.

I call the agent, to fine tune our rendezvous to pick up the apartment keys from her. She enquires "are you able to get through?" now I'm getting worried -
"What do you mean?" -
"The traffic in Paris is terrible" she informs me and I agree to call her when we are a few minutes from her maison.

We come off the freeway, across the périphérique and into the streets of the 17th. The traffic is very light, as you would expect for a Sunday evening. Maybe they're all in the center of Paris. I begin to recognise where we are; surely not. We are heading for Madeleine, which means we will be driving through Place de la Concorde. Up ahead flashing blue lights and a constant stream of young people celebrating. We are delayed at the traffic lights at Madeleine but only slightly. As we push through the crowd on the green light, waiting pedestrians beat the car; but it is all good hearted and we don't feel threatened. Crowd control in Place de la Concorde is well and truly in place and not withstanding that there is a concert in progress, and Sarkozy is due to appear there in about an hour, we drive through with unimpeded progress similar to that experienced on any day of the week. The international media are perched on their scaffold stages to utilise the concert as a backdrop and the huge screens in place give the impression of a crowd much bigger than reality.

We pick up the key and arrive at the apartment in good time with a fare less than our original arrival.

As for our sojourn, Switzerland was interesting but we would not be going out of our way to return to Lausanne nor Geneva. Montreaux was more interesting and might be a nice base for other excursions around this part of the country.

Berlin was wonderful and although we had 2½ days there we barely scratched the surface. The is much to see, particularly in the former eastern sector; exceptional museums, galleries and neighbourhoods. It has a very vibrant, young, creative community and is the magnet of current European creativity at the moment. Berlin will definitely be on future itineraries.



We did not see much of Hamburg having only one afternoon there. But what we saw was unexpectedly great.



We enjoyed Denmark, particularly our time with friends Pia and Peter Kaminsky at their summer house in Skjoltrup on the island of Falster. We get to see parts of Denmark not on the usual tourist route and relax for a couple of days in near perfect weather.

Copenhagen was fun and we feel we saw most of what we were interested in during our 2 days there.

Returning to Paris felt very much like returning home... our French home. Having a familiar apartment to come to is quite different to staying in a hotel or staying with friends, as nice as that is.

Thursday, April 26, 2007

Une nuit à l'Opéra

Actually the ballet.............. the Opera Garnier is raved about by all who have been. Rather than go on a day time tour we have had our hearts set on going to a performance. There are 2 performances this week. I go online and the site says all internet ticket are sold out for the production Cendrillon. Do I interpret this to mean that there are still seats available but not through the internet, or is it sold out?

I make a special trip into the Opera house to try and buy some tickets. A short cue at the box office - good; a sign posted prominently Cendrillon complete tous jours - bad. I've come this far I might as well ask. I hear the American ahead of me sucessfully purchase 4 tickets for Wednesday. My turn and yes, we can have four tickets in the first (2) and second(2) rows on the side, being top price tickets (A reserve). I had more inmind the E7 tickets in the gods; non monsieur this is all that is available. I bite the bullet and decide to buy the tickets which are more reasonable than Van Morrison at the Olympia (B reserve).

Our night at the Ballet lives up to expectation. The venue is absolutely stunning. The ballet "Cendrillon" by Rudolf Noureev which is loosely based upon the story of Cinderella, set in Hollywood, is fantastic. The Stepmother is played by a male but the bigger change is that the fairy godmother is also a man - in this version the part of the godmother is a talent spotter looking for a new star for the prince charming director. Execeptonal.

Philip doesn’t fall asleep – must have been special.

Friday, April 6, 2007

A month already






It seems incredible that a month has already
passed. We have seen many changes particularly in the last week with another burst of warm sunny weather. The trees are no longer skeletons and each day more and more green foliage accumulates. The parks are full of flowers and the birds are singing.

People ask us what we have been doing and its hard to say precisely. We've been constantly busy and enjoying our time.

We've explored many of the arrondissements; some we need to go back to and others are still to discover.

There's been some new museums. Musée du Quai Branly, a new museum of indigenous art. In presentation and content it is stunning. The Palais de Tokyo. A great surprise. This Musée has modern temporary exhibitions most of which feature installations. And the free permanent exhibitions at the Musée d'Art moderne de la Ville de Paris.




In addition to exploring Paris with our feet and eyes, our stomachs have also been delighting in Paris discovery. At both ends of the scale we've had finds - from local brasserie and bistro 'plat du jour' and some star rated restaurants with a fixed price lunch menu for less than the price of one dish at night.

Sunday, March 25, 2007

Parler Français

The conversation goes like this:
Me: Bonjour
Them: Good morning sir (is my French that bad that they pick me with one word)
M: Je voudrais une réservation pour le déjeuner aujourd'hui

T: Yes sir, for how many people?
M: Deux
T: No problem sir, two at what time?
M: Midi et Demi
T: 12.30 yes sir.
M: Merci, A bientôt
T: Thank you sir.

How's a guy supposed to improve his Français?????
My outrageous French accent is apparently atrocious!


Observations

Disclaimer
The following are meant to be observations, not criticisms. These notes are just to highlight some of the differences in Paris compared to Oz.

Internet cafe

Internet cafes, or Cyber Cafes as they are called, are hard to find in Paris. After everyone had told me there isn't one in the 7eme, where we are staying, and walking 25 minutes to the nearest I could find in the 16eme, I stumbled across one today. One person said to me, this area is too affluent to need such things. There seems to be no shortage of students and tourists in the area; but apparently they do not need such things.

Supermarkets
We've been told that what we call a supermarket is a hypermarché in Paris. There are 6 supermarché within a 5 minute walk of our apartment. Their range of goods is quite limited. A good selection of yohurt and very reasoablye priced vin rouge, I'm please to report, but light on with bathroom products for instance.The absence of pastry, bread and meat is good news supporting several excellent local
patiesseries, epiciers, boulangers et bouchers.

Hair
Long hair is still in for the over 40ish cool male. Maybe its fashionable or maybe they haven't moved on. I can tell they are are cool; they drive Porche and have attactive ladies in the passenger seat.

Potatoes
Something I have not realised before is the prominence of potatoes in the meals. It is more likely than not that potatoes in one form or another (frites, boiled, dauphine etc) will accompany your meal. Legumes beyond this need to be ordered as an extra. I'm not sure if this is a winter thing or a Paris idiosyncrasy. I do not recall the pomme de terre having such prominence in the South of France.

Tipping
For those of you that don't know, tipping is no longer a custom in France. L'addition includes all taxes, service and tips. How sensible of le Français! Vive etc..............

Café
Back to the subject of Café - the coffee variety. We know le Français aime beacoup leur café. I suspect this is one of the sacred institutions.
Take away or "Emporter" does not exist except from the American chains, Starbucks and the like. The moral is the most economic way to get the caffine hit first thing is a "un café svp" standing up at the bar.
If you stand at the bar un café can be had for €1.10 . If you sit at at a table €2.20 - fair enough. Add milk à la au lait, latte or cappuccino and bang your up to €3.50/€4.00 at the bar and €4 ish upwards depending on the establishment at the table. There's also a rather irritating practice of serving tourists with a large version of whatever you order unless you spell it out up front.

Chinese restaurants
Sensitive area. Remember Lundi à Chinatown (see separate posting).
In the business district there seem to be a few sit down Chinese restaurants. Moving out into the faubourgs (burbs) the Emporter is called a ASIA Traiteur and out numbers what we'd call a Chinese Restaurant 10 times. The disconcerting thing is that all the food is prepared and waiting for you to in the display cabinet to order and take away. No waiting for it to be freshly cooked, only heated before your eyes in the Microwave if you so request. But if you think about it the epicier, fromagier etc all have their take away food there pre cooked ready for you to take home and heat yourself; so why not the Chinese?

Gold ring trick
There's a trick that is fashionable here where this guy near you picks up a gold ring and asks if its yours.You say no, he tries it on his finger and makes signs that it doesn't fit and is of no use to him
, gives it to you and them walks off. He keeps walking but eventually comes back to ask for some money. How the trick works after this I don't know as I gave him the ring and told him to go away. I've been approached twice more with this routine.

Apartment numbers
In older buildings, like the one we are staying in, there are no apartment numbers. Our building has 2 apartments per floor with a board on the ground floor giving floors and names of residents in each floor. This is evidently usual. I don't know if this happens in the new apartment blocks.






A week of visitors and rain

The last week has been quite cold and we've had drizzle to heavy rain on and off all week.

Kwan's friend from USA and a friend of hers have been with us since Thursday.

I noticed for the first time some green shoots on some of the trees. Spring is certainly on the way.

Today, Sunday, it has warmed up with a max of 10 expected. The sun is shinning, which makes it feel warmer. This week it is expected to return to fine days of around 16C.

For some reason, possibly to coincide with the beginning of Daylight Saving, all of the department stores have a 3 day promotion (read sale) and, unusually, are open on Sunday. This has given me a day off from being tour guide and Metro navigator while they have their day of therapy. A whole day of cruising department stores would be like water torture for me. A thankful dispensation.


Sunday, March 18, 2007

Dimanche il pluie

Today we have woken to cloudy skies and wet streets out side.

Saturday, March 17, 2007

More photos of the Apartment

Looking to the entrance of our apartment building (on the right) and the end of the cul de sac

View over park from rear of apartment.

View along Rue St Dominic - on block from apartment

View along our street toward Rue de Grenelle

Lounge room window looking over our street

Dining Room

Dining Room

Le Salon

Friday, March 16, 2007

Friday with Van

Tonight we have tickets to see Van Morrison at the Olympia.

We catch the Metro to Madeleine and find something light to eat. Kwan is concerned that we are running late for the 8pm start. I inform her that we will only miss a few minutes of the support act. We arrive at 8.10 and the bars are full. Maybe everyone is sitting out the support. After people watching for a few minutes we go in. No one on stage! Oh well running late... We are shown to our seats. We purchased the B reserve in the circle as they didn't look too far back on the plan and we were pleased at being able to get seats on the aisle. It turns out the aisle seat is a jump, or folding seat. Presumably this is to make for wider aisles when people are leaving, but it doesn't make for particularly comfortable seating. Kwan is stoic. I note that they have not sold all the jump seats... local knowledge.

At a little after 8.30, "Ladies and gentlemen Mr Van Morrison" and the 7 piece band and 2 backing singers strike up Moondance. I'm in heaven. We experience an hour and a half of the most amazing Jazz meets country sprinkled with rock and roll and Irish folk. The set includes Brown Eyed Girl, Bright Side of the Road, Days Like This, Stranded, St. James Infirmary, I Can't Stop Loving You and the Olympia erupted when he concluded with GLORIA. One of the classiest concerts I've been to in years. Van Morrison in Paris

10.15 we head home thoroughly satisfied.

Une promenade tôt de matin

With absolutely perfect weather, an early morning walk really shows off Paris to its best.
It is such a stunning city.
La tour et Champ de Mars

Ecole Militaire from Champ de Mars

Ave de New York

La Seine

Magnifique

Early morning shadows



Les Invalides et Pont Alexandre III


Quai des Tuileries

Invalides cannons

Thursday, March 15, 2007

Le Boucher

Local Boucher


Paris est très beau

Today is our eleventh day here. Other than the first one and half days the weather has been fantastic.We haven't seen a cloud in the sky for the last 9 days; low 5 and up to 18 during the day.
Such weather shows off Paris to its best. We have been making the best of the beautiful weather walking all over the place. We have walked between 10 and 20k every day. All the walking is the only thing saving us from being many kilos heavier as a result of the irresistible food.

Wednesday, March 14, 2007

Monday, March 12, 2007

Thursday, March 8, 2007

Notre appartment est très beau





Our apartment is sur le troisième etage (on the third floor) of a 5 story Hussmannian style building in the 7th arrondissement. Square de la Tour Maubourg is a cul de sac off Rue de Grenelle. We are at the end overlooking the street and a lovely primary school on one side- with the sounds of children playing wafting up at different times during the day - and to the rear a park leading to the American University of Paris (AUP)
Our floor is serviced by an old fashion cage style lift; an outer hinged wrought iron door with an inner concertina folding wooden gate, both of which must be closed before any movement is possible. There are only two apartments per floor.

We are one block from the Metro and a 20 Minute walk from the Eiffel Tower and the Musee dÓrsay. location
The Rue Cler market is 150m and there are many pattisserie, boulangerie, épicerie fine, fleuriste and restaurants in the area.

Wednesday, March 7, 2007